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Food and herbal nutritional products » Diet » Palak paneer without Indians? No thank you
Palak paneer without Indians? No thank you
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Cambridge - It s 9 p.m. on a Thursday at Caf of India on Brattle Street. Of the 25 dinner guests, only one looks Indian. Popular Bollywood songs are playing. Walls are decorated with paintings of elephants, maharajas and goddesses. There is a protruding sculpture of Lord Ganesha s face and the romantic mood is set by diyas (Indian lamps)instead of candles. You would think you were in India, if only there were a few Indians around. The situation is not much different at the other Indian restaurants around Cambridge. Only one table is occupied by Indians at the Bombay Club on JFK Street, and only four of the 19 guests at Tanjore are Indian. Many key ingredients to Indian cooking are difficult to find in America and too expensive to import. Local alternatives blemish the authenticity. For instance, fresh coconut is used in most South Indian foods. Chutneymade with dried coconuts will taste different it won t taste authentic. Restaurateurs around Cambridge insist their food is authentic Indian cuisine. Raspal Singh, head chef and co-owner of the Caf of India, declares, We own seven Indian restaurants all serve only authentic North Indian food. But, he admits, Very few Indians come here. Maybe around 10 percent. So are Indians just tired of Indian food? Not to be caught contradicting his boss, one Indian restaurant manager explains that the food here is considerably sweeter and creamier. Surreptitiously he says, while preparing each dish, the American taste is kept in mind. An Indian food buff, 29-year-old Kshitij Gujarati has been in the United States for five years. He recently took an Indian visitor to Caf of India for dinner. There are places in America that serve authentic Indian food, but they are hard to find. It simply lacks the same quality and taste my favorite restaurants in India have. It s a compromise. Indians need Indian food. I see no reason why there should not be a truly authentic Indian restaurant around, he said. Tanjore s Ramesh Kapoor has been managing restaurants for 11 years. We serve authentic Indian food, he said. It s better than the food you get in India. According to Kapoor, The best Indian food is in England. Not India. India they make it too fatty, oily, not good, not tasty. This opinion annoyed 21 year-old Varun Bhabha, an Indian student at Brandeis who is interning in Boston. What rubbish! Real Indian food is made in every real Indian home. My dada (grandfather) hesitates to visit only because he would miss his home-cooked food too much. Harvard student and Tanjore regular Raj Ramaswamy admits, This is not authentic food. But we make do with what we ve got out here. Food in India is an obsession. Each region of India has developed its own distinct cuisine and each home, its signature variation. In the arid regions of Rajasthan and Gujarat, a great variety of dals and achars (preserves of pickle) are used to substitute the lack of fresh vegetables and fruits. South Indians fight the heat-induced-flu by using a lot of red chilies and tamarind. Large varieties of seafood cooking styles are found in the coastal regions of Bengal and Kerala. According to folklore, women of marriageable age were often judged by the dal they made. Ask any Cantabrigian who is Indian what they don t like about the Indian restaurants and in unison they all say, Its too heavy. I sympathize. As a full grown Indian from India, home-cooked food means a lot to me. My nani s (maternal grandmother) house in Calcutta is paradise. The difference starts right from the market. The vegetables are bought from a vegetable bazaar undoubtedly organic. Each dish retains the flavor of the vegetable and is considerably spicier. The cooking involves no cream or sugar. Each meal is a complete balanced diet. It involves a dals for protein. At least three vegetables (invariably, one will be green) for the various minerals and vitamins. And every morning, a poll is taken to decide whether the carbohydrates would come from pulao (pilaf) or chapatti. The two are not mixed. The food served at an Indian restaurant is Punjabi. It is the richest of the Indian palate. And there is a reason. Five rivers meet in the state of Punjab. The fertile land makes farming a popular occupation. The food is tailor-made for a lifestyle that demands physical strength and energy to work the fields. Most Indians eat four light meals each day, but Punjabi food is heavy enough to be eaten only twice a day. One manager said Indians are simply too fond of their own home cooking. So while Americans like to go out to eat, Indians would rather stay at home and cook, instead of paying to eat Indian food some consider unauthentic. Potential tourists just like Varun s dada often ask Paramjit Singh, an Indian taxi driver, to take them to a real Indian restaurant. His standard reply is, The food that you have in India, you won t find here. I can only take you to the closest alternative. Sheepishly he adds, Or the airport! Born in Mumbai, Anant Goenka is a student at University of Southern California who s enrolled at Harvard s summer journalism program and prefers home-cooked Indian food. Additional information:
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